Putting the Garden to Bed

            It’s hard to believe we’re here – time to let go. Well, it’s nearly time.

            If you are standing there waiting for the ground to harden, all I can say is “not just yet.” There are still some important garden tasks you can do.

            Now is the ideal time for soil preparation, whether you’re digging a new bed or trying to modify soil that is either sandy or clay. The soil is warm, and the microbiological activities are at an all-time high. The moisture content is between extremes, making this an ideal time to work the soil.

            If you are planning a new border, dig the whole area roughly and leave it exposed to the weather. Frost will break heavy soil into a fine, crumbly texture, making planting and sowing easier in the spring. Leaving the soil rough reduces overwintering pests and diseases, while improving soil structure, and allows organic matter time to break down. It also allows birds and mice to pick grubs and weed seeds from the area.

            Organic material can be layered on now and worked into the ground to provide sustenance for microorganisms. We use what is available, composed of chicken manure mixed with shredded leaves and garden waste. I thought about the good that comes from our chickens as I cleaned out their coop yesterday, although eggs production has waned – they are giving us some organic material for good use.

            Fallen leaves are upon us, and these can be put to good use. While dropping off brush at the Mattapoisett Transfer Station we noted that it’s high season for people disposing of their leaves to the ever-growing mountain of compostables. It might be something to rethink – leaves can actually help shelter wildlife in your yard resulting in a healthier ecosystem. Leaves are a natural source of fertilizer which is why mulching them as you mow makes good sense. Rather than automatically bagging your leaves, use the mower to chop them and then distribute them in the vacant garden beds and a designated area for composting (along with green weeds and vegetable waste). Your plants (and the earthworms) will love it.

            I recommend adding lime to nutrify the soil now. Lime contains calcium, which all plants need for strong cell walls. Winterize your lawn with lime (in pelletized form) and fertilizer designed to work on the roots. Lime helps improve the soil pH and helps the fertilizer work more effectively. I always advocate a safe organic lawn fertilizer- a better choice than synthetic options because they avoid harsh chemicals and pesticides.

            Same goes for trees and shrubs to which you can use a slow-release fertilizer and bar feeding using organic fertilizer spikes that will help build a nourishing environment promoting beneficial microbial action at the roots. As trees shed their leaves, the plant’s energy has gone underground. Roots are active and will be for three or four more weeks. Newly transplanted or divided plants can also use a dose of slow-release fertilizer.

            Since we don’t know exactly what the winter will bring, (the Farmer’s Almanac says to expect a “wild ride”) it is best to empower your trees and plants with all the armor possible.

            The Cottage Gardener’s Companion recommends several tasks to properly put your garden to bed for the winter, including the following:

            -Protect borderline hardy plants with a good blanket of straw, fern or conifer fronts, peat substitute, bubble plastic or fine mesh horticultural netting.

            – Continue pruning trees and shrubs where desirable. Avoiding evergreens and spring-flowering shrubs, winter is the best time to thin out unwanted or badly placed stems from trees and shrubs to improve their balance or general appearance.

            – Cut back dead stems of perennials and tidy borders by removing dead leaves and weeks, then lightly fork over the surface of the borders to incorporate any previously applied mulch and break up any surface crusting. Alternatively, leave until spring and enjoy the shapes and colors of the stems and seedheads, and the contribution they make to the winter garden.

            – Put out water for birds. It’s best if put in a shallow container wide enough to allow birds to bathe, which is vital to keep their plumage in good condition to insulate against the cold.

            – Make sure that a small area of water in the garden pond is kept clear of ice so that gases from rotting vegetation can escape or fish may be poisoned.

            – Lift dahlia and begonia tubers, bedding gladiolus and pelargoniums and store in a front-free shed or garage.

            When the hard frost sets in you can sit back and appreciate the way it etches every twig, leaf and berry. And rest assured that you’ve done your groundwork for spring.

            “The sun is lower in the sky, casting long shadows, and the afternoon light is golden, spread like honey over walls, roofs and hedges.” -Clive Lane, “The Cottage Gardener’s Companion.”

The Seaside Gardener

By Laura McLean

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