Abigail Field has studied history and fashion at UMass Dartmouth, where she earned a Bachelor of Arts degree in history. Field learned how events in human history have led to changes in clothing, and she enjoys sharing her knowledge and insights on the topic. She recently delighted an online audience hosted by the Sippican Historical Society with her presentation of Women’s Clothing in WWI: A Turning Point.
Field is, among other things, a collector of vintage women’s clothing, which adds to the dimension of her presentations, such as when she pointed out the evolution of the corset.
While holding and displaying a flexible corset from 1810, Field said this foundational piece completely changed during the years of the First World War. She said the WWI style of corset was “lightly boned” and added, “They were excellent for breast and back support.” The corset was the precursor of the modern-day bra, providing a lift to the bosom.
But that was just the beginning of the many layers that women wore before the war, Field stated. While most of the many undergarments were of thin, gauzy fabrics, there were, in fact, many. A first layer most likely included a chemise, a bust bodice, a corset that was either boned or corded, a corset cover, pantaloons that may have featured a split crotch for ease of using toilet facilities, a shift, bust bodices, petticoats (one or more), stockings, a skirt and blouse or dress, a belt, shoes, and, if leaving one’s domicile, a hat, coat, and gloves. Phew!
But changes were coming, and while fashion trends were already beginning to adapt and adopt such influences as Oriental silks and bold patterns, and Russian tunics and turbans, the events playing out in trench warfare pushed fashions even further.
Field said, “Women went to work, and you can’t wear layers and long skirts in a factory.” She also pointed out that many types of fabric were needed for the war effort. An interesting development in how clothing was fastened to the body was also explored.
Field explained that early clothing featured buttons and ribbons primarily placed along the back of a garment, not the front. She said that it was nearly impossible for a lady to dress herself, given the closures were all placed along the spine. When nurses’ uniforms were modified by placing closures in the front, “It became a trend,” Field said. Also changing were the embellishments fashion had included. “Military-style became a fashion trend; less lace, less beading [and] darker colors became more acceptable.”
Field said that mass production of day-to-day wear began about this time, “based on mass production of military clothing.” And, “Women didn’t want to go back to layers,” she shared.
In the 1920s, a pandemic and war-weary world wanted to enjoy a freedom of movement that included everything from music to fashion. Gone by then were the tailored, form-fitting shapes of the Edwardian age. “The silhouette flattened; that made elaborate textiles with heavy beading or lame or exciting prints the center of attention in the gowns, rather than the tailoring. This meant dresses were made more simply via rectangular shapes.”
Commenting on the differences between clothing worn by men versus women during the 19th century, Field said men were unencumbered with layers of fabric and, moreover, “Men in mourning only had to wear a black armband for three months.… Women had to wear black clothing for three years!”
It’s the slices of social history that spice a Field presentation.
As time went on between 1917 and 1920, waistlines dropped, and hemlines rose. Long skirts no longer hobbled a woman’s stride. After all, the suffragettes were on the march.
Cultural and social ideas were expanding. “During the aftermath of the war, people were disillusioned; the result of war’s brutality was very evident,” Field stated. The door was opened to new design concepts— enter cubism. “No fashion concept stands alone. It draws on a variety of style influences, not the least of which is war,” she concluded.
To watch the full presentation, visit vimeo.com/orctvcommunity.
World War I: The Impact on Fashion
By Marilou Newell