The beautiful fall weather, a new set of bicycle tires, and the need to clear my head of the week’s tribulations sent me off on a ride through hill and dale. The warming sun felt pleasant, and the brisk air did wonders for the old lungs. But by the time I had reached my quota of 20 miles, my fingers and feet were fairly numb. The ride had become a compressed version of so many autumn days: lovely one moment, decidedly chilly the next.
Such is the erratic nature of a Northeast fall. Although any season can be temperamental, autumn is the classic drama queen — composed one minute and shrieking the next. With a pleasant stretch of weather before us, it is tempting to declare the arrival of Indian summer. But not so fast! Traditionally, Indian summer refers to an unseasonably warm spell following a killing frost, often occurring later in the fall. Here in Massachusetts, we are still immersed in autumn foliage and typical October weather, so I think it is a bit too early to celebrate.
Through it all, we gardeners must cope, either embracing the weather’s fickleness or reminding ourselves that spring is only a season and a half away! Getting bulbs into the ground, installing those remaining plants and dividing overgrown perennials are all good ways to take our minds off the weather. So are raking leaves and keeping the garden tidy as the season winds down.
But for those who are fretting about lifting their dahlias before winter sets in, there is still plenty to enjoy — and a little work to do before the garden goes to sleep.
Recently, I hopped over the garden wall to admire my neighbor Jim Nordquist’s dahlias, and what a sight greeted me! Jim has one of the loveliest gardens in our vicinity, as anyone who has joined a local garden tour can attest. One day, I will devote a column to the entire spread, but for now, let’s focus on the here and now: dahlias.
There is an amusing twist to the dahlia’s history. When the tubers were brought from Mexico to Europe in the late 18th century, they were explored as a potential food crop. Fortunately for us flower lovers, dahlias have proved far more valuable as food for the eyes!
When most other flowers have faded or gone to seed, dahlias are still putting on a show. They burst forth in a dazzling array of colors, shapes, and sizes, commanding attention just when we need a little reminder of summer’s exuberance. From petite, tidy blooms to enormous dinner-plate flowers, their variety is astonishing. Their rich colors and sculptural forms seem to defy the shortening days, offering one last glorious performance before frost brings the curtain down.
Jim’s dahlia bed sits in the middle of his backyard, making it a dazzling centerpiece. He finds that dahlias do best in full sun. When planting, he adds compost, aged manure, and peat moss, along with a tall stake to support the plants.
“They’re great for late-season color and something to look forward to at the end of the gardening season,” he says.
And that is precisely why dahlias are worth a little extra effort. While many garden favorites have called it quits for the year, these late-season stars are still giving us their all. The question now is how best to preserve them for another season — and what local growers have learned from years of experience.
I asked Jim about his favorite varieties. His main source is Swan Island Dahlias, and he rattled off a list: “Wildcat,” “Pooh,” “Cabana Banana,” “Maarn,” and a hot-pink beauty named “Helen Richmond.”
The last one caught my attention. Jim bought it in part because it shared the name of our late neighbor.
“No connection, but it’s really nice, just like she was,” he said.
For those reluctant to part with these beauties, a bit of advice from fellow dahlia enthusiasts may make the task less daunting. With a little care now, we can tuck away the promise of next summer’s flowers and look forward to another spectacular show.
Preparing Dahlias for Winter Storage
Proper winter storage is key to dahlia success. With a little care in the fall, you can protect your tubers through the winter and enjoy healthy plants and beautiful blooms the following season. Here are some tips from experienced local growers.
-When to dig: Wait until the foliage has been blackened by a killing frost before lifting your tubers, giving them time to mature. Avoid leaving them in the ground if freezing conditions threaten, as tubers can be damaged by frozen soil.
-When to divide: Some growers recommend dividing tubers in the fall, when the stalks are still relatively soft and easier to cut. By spring, they can become as hard as wood. Fall division also allows the cut surfaces time to dry and heal before planting season.
-Wash and cut: Once you’ve lifted the clumps, use a hose nozzle to wash away the soil. Then, using a sharp, serrated knife, divide them carefully. It’s fine to do this while the tubers are still wet.
-Keep a piece of the crown: Make sure each division includes a portion of the crown with at least one viable eye, or growth bud. Without an eye, a tuber will not produce a new plant. Remove excess roots and thin, dangling tuber tails to make storage more manageable. Discard any tubers that are rotten or badly damaged.
-Label your varieties: If you grow several varieties, now is the time to identify them. Write each variety’s name on the tubers with an indelible marker or label the storage container clearly.
-Let the cut surfaces dry: After dividing, place the tubers in labeled boxes and leave them overnight so the cut surfaces can begin to dry and heal.
-Pack for winter: The following day, pack the tubers in a suitable storage medium. Some local growers recommend fresh pine sawdust that is only slightly moist—not wet. Place a layer beneath the tubers and cover them with another layer to help prevent shriveling while minimizing the risk of rot. Jim uses a different method: he stores his tubers in zip-top bags with holes punched in them for ventilation, along with a scoop of peat moss.
-Choose the right storage spot: Dahlias are vulnerable to freezing temperatures, so store the tubers in a cool, frost-free location. A temperature around 40–45°F is generally suitable. If storing boxes on a dirt floor, raise them on a pallet or another barrier to protect them from ground moisture. Check the tubers periodically through the winter and remove any that show signs of rot.
For more information on growing and caring for dahlias, visit the American Dahlia Society at www.dahlia.org.
“Hurray…it’s a frost! The dahlias are all dead.”— R.S. Surtees, Handley Cross
The Seaside Gardener
By Laura McLean